I made it back north! Every few years I try to head up to New Brunswick, Canada to explore the tides, visit Prince Edward Island and hike in Fundy National Park. This time was really special to me because I hadn’t been with my little brother since I was 16. Our family also got to show around his fiancé and introduce her to the little town of Alma.
I drove up with my Mom and Dad and we stayed in Kittery, Maine as a pitstop. We snacked on Bob’s Clam Hut (a tradition in our family). We also tried a new place for me called When Pigs Fly. They had some local Maine beers and awesome bread!
The next day we crossed the border and got out first taste of Canada: Poutine. Poutine is a delicious little dish of fries, gravy and cheese curds. It is more popular in the US now, but I haven’t found anywhere that can hold a candle to this stuff.
Our first full day was Canada Day – the first of July. The town of Alma started with a small parade and yummy cake. We sang the Canadian National Anthem and waved flags over the Bay of Fundy.
For lunch that day we went to the Alma Lobster shop – run by the Collins. The lobster in this picture is 20 POUNDS! Yup. He’s a biggin.’ We also got to walk back into the lobster pound.
The whole village of Alma runs on lobster. Collins, the shop owner bought his lobster fishing license years ago and it’s now worth over a million dollars. The licenses work like the New York Taxi Cab coins – there’s a limited number of fisherman allowed.
Then we went to Point Wolfe Covered Bridge. I took some cute pictures of my brother and his bride-to-be underneath. The tide was halfway out while we were walking around.
We did a quick stop at Herring Cove. Spoiler alert: there are no longer herrings here. Alma has a sea kayaking group that does trips along the coast and you end right here with a picnic.
When the tide had fully gone out at night, we went down into the bay to walk around. Google satellite view now does a way better job of showing you just how far the water goes out. We wandered all the way out to the edge of Owl’s Head.
We looked a tide pools and snails and my brother threw some sticks – because why not?
Here is a shot of High and Low Tide in the harbor area. You can see how the boats are up top and then they sit on crates in the mud when the tide is out.
The next day we did the Fundy Studio Tour. We started with lunch at Cinnamon Soul Cafe. The drink was a rhubarb gin and tonic. Rhubarb drinks are hard to find in the US, so I have to drink my fill while in Canada.
We saw clay artists and antique shops. We also went to Waterside Winery to try some fruit wines.
In the photo below you can see HA HA CEMETERY. It isn’t some kind of mean joke. The name of the cemetery comes from a pond who got it’s name from the sound geese make.
We stopped off on the side of the road to see this grounded ship decaying in the mud. I loved the little white flowers growing up inside.
At night we did a quick hike to Dickson Falls. This trail is incredibly accessible and easy for a family to do. The boardwalks are clear and there are stairs up and down to the falls themselves.
I was thankful we did it in the evening because we had really even lighting to snap some gorgeous shots.
My brother’s fiance and I went to do a Beaver Watch right after the hike. I had never done one as a kid, so this was new to me. Apparently, we got super lucky and saw three beavers all within the first 15 minutes. One even crossed the street for us. We learned that these are some oddball beavers. First, they’ve chosen to live in a lake instead of by running water. Second, they have started tunneling a lot (more like groundhogs) and third, they moved in right next to their parents. Generally, beavers move away from their parents instead of lodging up as neighbors.
I took my brother’s fiance the next morning to a hidden field by my house where we made flower crowns.
In the evening we played lawn bowling in Fundy National Park! I seriously want to flatten out my lawn to do this at home.
My parents and I went on a short hike at caribou plains. This hike is mostly on wood boards and goes over into a bog. It’s really shocking stuff to see.
The forest here is a brilliant mix of life and death.
Every morning my dad, uncle and brother went golfing. The girls joined one day to watch the action. My uncle and brother play silly putting games at the end of each hole. I got some videos of the two of them egging each other on.
After golfing, we went to Cape Enrage to go rappelling. Just like everything else along the Bay of Fundy, rappelling is run by the tides. We got there when the tide switched from high to low, and had to wait for the tides to recede before starting down the cliffs.
The last time my brother and I went rappelling together was as children. One time he bought me a figure-8 rapel device charm that I wear as a necklace. I always think of him when I go climbing now.
My dad took a series of shots as I descended the cliff face and I photoshopped them together in one set. It’s really fun to see it as I go down!
Since we were close by and the tide was out, we went to Hopewell Rocks to walk on the ocean floor. The last time I was here it was so windy and sunny that I could barely open my eyes.
The evening was a perfect time to explore and there was NO ONE AROUND! I hadn’t ever seen it this empty.
For food several days, we went to the Fundy Take Out. Their kiddie cone is just a toonie and its plenty to eat.
Hiking Laverty is a must if you are in Fundy National Park. Pack a snack and a swimsuit and take a dip in the falls. The water was warmer than I remember, though we could have just gotten lucky that day.
Also make sure to bring shoes you can get wet. It’s way easier to wade in with your feet protected by something.
I had a picture of me like this in the blue lagoon in Iceland, so we recreated it here in the sunshine.
After all that hiking we got a big meal at the Old Bavarian Inn outside of Sussex. It was crowded the night we ate dinner. We also played cribbage – a family past time.
The church where they had my grandfather’s funeral is now a coffee shop and brewery. The name of the brewery is Holy Whale Brewing Co. and I just love what they did with the logo. They modeled after the stained glass they left in the church. Also their sours are excellent!
In the mornings in Alma, there is no better place to have breakfast than Kelly’s. Their sticky buns are famous and there are members of my household that do some serious damage while visiting. The week with my brother wrapped up quick and we took him to the airport in Moncton.
After he left, my mom and I did a lot of exploring on our own (and cleaning up of our family’s home). In the panoramic shot below, we walked out to Point Wolfe at LOW LOW TIDE.
My mother and I also took a side trip to Prince Edward Island. This place is truly magical. Driving the island never bothers me because there is so much to soak in. I would love to retire there in the summers. Our first stop on the Island was just across the Confederation Bridge in Borden-Carleton to get some Cows Ice Cream.
Then, we went to Avonlea. We arrived as the island emptied from a weekend concert. This gave us plenty of open quiet streets to wander. I had a Boom Burger and Mom got a lobster roll.
We also both shared a Beaver Tail – a fried dough snack which my brother plans on having at his wedding! In the evening, we went to see Anne & Gilbert, the musical. We got princess parking right in front of the theater and enjoyed the music immensely.
The next day, after staying in Charlottetown, we headed east. We had never done this part of Prince Edward Island, so it was all new and exciting.
Our first stop was Wood Island lighthouse. We saw the ferry arriving from Nova Scotia too.
Then, we passed a winery called Rossignol. I had tried one of their wines before but never been to the grounds. The area is immaculately groomed. We donated some money and tried so many interesting wines. We picked up a bottle of Maple wine to bring home!
Then we went North along the coast to Panmure Island, where the sand is white on one half and red on the other. You can get a good view of it from the lighthouse itself.
For lunch in Montague, we went to Copper Bottom brewing. I got a blueberry sour and mom got a cider. We split a chicken pot pie handpie and rested up. We also checked out some local crafts and the town itself.
Next up was Georgetown. This tiny place packed big personality. Stop in at Shoreline Designs and meet Peter. I asked him how his day was, and he replied that he’d have to be TWO people to be any better. I truly believed him. His jewelry is lovely and I bought myself a ring.
Our final stop before dinner was Basin Head Provincial Park to see the Singing Sands. When you walk along the sand it “sings.” Singing is more like squeaking but it is seriously cool. It happens because there is a high amount silica and quartz. I took a tiny vial of it home with me.
Our final stop of the day was at The Inn at Bay Fortune for the Fireworks Feast! Our neighbor back in New Brunswick mentioned this place to us off the cuff and the Monday morning we left for PEI, we googled it. We noticed there as a reservation for Tuesday and got in. I still have no idea HOW. The rest of the guests we met reserved four months back or spent time putting their names on waiting lists!
Chef Michael Smith runs the Inn. When you arrive, Kevin Petrie, the farmer, gives you a tour of the grounds and explains their philosophy and growing methods. Then you starting eating – for the next several hours!
You start in the gardens with oysters pulled from the bay that morning, topped with Bloody Mary Ice. You can find the recipe on their website if you want to try it at home. Then you walk around sampling different fire cooked goodies. Michael gives a bubbly toast before the full meal begins inside the Inn.
If you need an excuse to wander East on PEI, this meal is it! Our last day on the Island we saw some familiar spots and some new hangouts.
We went to the Dunes Gallery for lunch and viewing the artwork.
I got a rhubarb-a-rita with my Pad Thai. It was a great meal to kick off the day.
Next we went to Dalvay by the Sea a historic home built in 1895. This place is gorgeous and they did some filming of Anne of Green Gables here.
The land itself though is the most beautiful part of this island. It’s hard to grasp in photos.
Our final stop was Thunder Cove to see the tea cup rock. The sand her is super red and it reminded me a lot of the Hopewell landscape.
These rocks are always changing and breaking so I was happy to see it before that little teacup topples!
Leaving was hard. We ate another handpie on our way across the border and trekked back to New Brunswick.
We spent the final days in New Brunswick cleaning and resting. My mom and I hiked Matthew’s Head together.
And my dad and I saw a young moose in the morning! I included this illustration to show you just how high the tides come up, and the panoramic shot from my bedroom balcony.
Finally, here is a collection of local flora from the area. All around Fundy National park you can find these copper pieces hidden. You use them to make a rubbing on a piece of paper.
And what trip of mine would be complete without my feet on all sorts of textures?
This trip meant a lot to me and I can’t wait to go back already. I’ve gotta figure out a way to live out my summers without losing my job!